From Pesticides to Preservation, How One Colorado Farm Became a Pioneer in Sustainability
Growing up on Colorado’s Western Slope, Steve Ela never felt pressured by his parents to take over the family’s fruit orchard. His mother, Shirley, was the third generation of her family to farm, while his father, Bill, worked in fruit orchards throughout his youth before becoming a District Court Judge. Like his parents, Steve spent his childhood outdoors, working and playing among the tall grass and fruit trees of Grand Junction. However, he was eager to venture to another part of the world and discover what lay beyond rural Colorado.
With a love of nature and the outdoors, Steve went on to study biology and environmental geology at Beloit College, a small liberal arts school in Wisconsin. He continued to pursue his passion for the environment and agriculture by conducting research as an intern in Kansas at The Land Institute, working on policy throughout the Midwest, and earning a master’s degree in Soil Science from the University of Minnesota St. Paul. At the end of this decade of exploration and learning, Steve made the ultimate decision to return to his roots and take the reins at Ela Family Farms.
The origins of Ela Family Farms date back to 1907. Starting with Steve’s great grandparents, his family has passed down more than a century of wisdom, experience, and hard-earned lessons – some of the greatest assets in farming. Today, Ela Family Farms grows a variety of fruit on 100 acres in Hotchkiss, including sweet cherries, peaches, plums, heirloom tomatoes, and, most famously, over 30 varieties of apples. They sell at seven farmers markets across the Front Range every weekend, cutting out the middleman to deliver the highest quality fruit possible. “The great thing about the markets is that you can ask the growers what’s in your food,” he said. “You don’t get that at the grocery store.”
If you had to pinpoint where Steve has had the most significant impact on the farm, it would likely be in its environmental practices. He always felt a tension between his love for environmentalism and the practices of conventional farming. When his parents ran the farm, they used pesticides and chemical sprays. “At the time, it made sense to go down that road,” Steve reflected. “They were marketed as miracle sprays. It just happened to turn out that those miracles had consequences.” Steve began transitioning to organic farming around 1994, first reducing their reliance on sprays and ultimately becoming certified organic ten years later. “Not having to wear the whole moon suit is a joy. I loved being able to let my kids grow up running through the orchard without worrying about what chemicals they were being exposed to.”
Steve’s commitment to organic farming led him to serve on the National Organic Standards Board, the governing body that sets standards for what qualifies as organic food. While the organic food movement has surged in popularity and demand, it’s easy to overlook that these standards are codified in law, safeguarding them from the marketing gimmicks and greenwashing that often flood the food industry. Steve shared that his favorite part of being involved was witnessing democracy in action. “Very few people know how organic standards are made,” Steve said. “But yet there is a very public government process that can change what the organic standards look like. I find that very empowering.”
In addition to growing fruit without harsh chemicals, Ela Family Farms is also a zero-waste farm. They prioritize harvesting as much fruit as possible throughout the summer and use an onsite food processing facility to turn peaches, apples, plums, and pears that aren’t fit for the market into jams, dried fruit, and apple cider. Researchers who visited Ela Family Farms assessed that, through all of these efforts, the farm is almost carbon neutral, even with weekly travel to the Front Range.
If you’ve visited the Boulder or Longmont Farmers Markets, you’ve likely noticed the Ela Family Farms booth, staffed with helpful team members in red aprons offering fruit samples. “We really appreciate all of our customers who come back market after market, in bad weather, season after season,” Steve emphasized. “It’s really what makes it fun for us. It’s not just agriculture, it’s a social system too.” They’ll be at the Boulder Farmers Market for the final market of the season this Saturday, November 23, and at the Winter Market on December 7 and 8. Now is the perfect time to stock up on apples to enjoy throughout the winter. Steve recommends Keepsake, Fuji, or Gold Rush apples (his favorite!) and suggests storing them in a cool, but not freezing, space to enjoy for months after the markets end.
Eat Like an Expert with Steve Ela
Go-To Market Meal: Stewed plums with dumplings, or apples with Bok Choy
Staff Recommendation: Whatever’s fresh! Right now, that’s Keepsake or Fujis if you like a sweet apple, or try a Gold Rush. They are sweet and tart – one of Steve’s favorites.
Favorite Restaurant: Potager in Denver
